The look says it all!
We left Xian on a dull and misty day to start our long trip through southern China and into South East Asia proper. After a two day drive and only one rough camp we arrived in Chengdu. On the evening of our arrival I went to the opera. This is not opera as we know it as for all who know me as a Philistine extraordinaire I would never do 'proper' opera! Chinese opera is more of a variety show with traditional chinese song and dance as well as acrobatics and other delights. I was especially fasinated by the mask and costume changing where the actor changes the mask and costume whilst on stage. (I'm damned if I can work out how they do it. Certainly didn't catch it on the photos!).
A night at the Opera
The following morning we visited the Panda breeding centre where Pandas are bred for release into the wild in an attempt to reverse the decline of this most cuddly of bears. In addition to the Panda we know and love Red Pandas are also bred here but they are notoriously difficult to re-establish into the wild and I believe that today these little beasties are all but extinct in the wild in China.
Its a hard life being a Panda
From Chengdu we had six and a half days of hard driving and rough camping before we arrived in Lijiang early one sunny afternoon where we had a day and a bit to stop moving, dry out tents, take stock and just look around. Lijiang consists of a new town (standard modern stuff) and an old town which is a maze of lanes that twist and turn all following the main stream one way or another. The old town is of Naxi (one of the 52 minorities in China) origin and is definitely the main tourist attraction with the main street consisting of nothing but souvenir and gift shops! The hustle and bustle of the main street is offset by the calm and quiet of the side streets where a lot of the Naxi still reside. From Lijiang you can also do a day trip to the famous Tiger Leaping Gorge but I didn't.
Lijiang
Dali
From Dali we had another three long days of driving and rough camps until we reached the border and said goodbye to China and heLaos to Laos (spot the pun!). Before describing the next stage in our journey I'd like to take a moment for a general comment on China.
China was not what I expected. Not sure what I was expecting but it certainly wasn't the modern and bustling China we saw. There is a phenomonal amount of development going on with new buildings springing up all over the place. Also as I mentioned in an earlier missive the Chinese approach to restoration is to knock it down and rebuild (all be it with the original materials) which means that some of the 'old' towns look brand new (e.g. Lijiang and Dali are classic examples). Also the roads are for the most part excellent and there is a massive expressway project which aims to link all the major cities in China so they are no more than 8 hours apart. The engineering work for this is awesome and my pictures really don't show the scale of it.
Unlike the China we saw in the first part of our journey, Southern China is much more mountainous (well, big hills when compared to the Himalaya). The monsoon was in full swing as we passed through so most days were drizzly at best and bucketing it down at worst but you can see the result of all this rain in the lushness of the country side and the cultivation generally.
Building the expressway
Some general China photos
The move from China into Laos was probably most noticable by the change in road quality and the way the people lived. The terrain is still very mountainous and verdant (cool word!). Cultivation isn't at the level we saw in China but then that's not really surprising. Housing tends to be basic with lots of huts made from wood and woven palm leaves (at least I think its palm leaves) Again I have been surprised at the sharp change noticable when you cross borders.
After a rough camp and a day's drive we arrive at Luang Prabang our first stop in Laos. This is a largish town and where we get our Vitnamese visas sorted out. Spent the day chilling and wandering around the town. From Luang Prabang we continue south to the Plain of Jars and Vien Vang.
People got buried in these
Temple in Luang Prabang
Luang Prabang Night Market
Vien Vang hasn't much about it except you can go tubing, kayaking and caving amongst other sports in and on the Mekong river. I didn't tube, kayak or cave but rather spent the day doing SFA, whatched the Grand Prix in an Irish bar and had steak and ale pie for supper all in all a good day! Most of our time in Laos was spent on the truck so here are some photos taken as we were passing through.
Harvesting Rice
Dragon Boat Race
Rain clouds gathering
Life goes on as we pass through
Hue Imperial City - Mostly Mauloleums now
From Hue we drive a few hours down the coast road and pass through Da Nang and on to Hoi An where we spend the next three nights. A few centuries ago Hoi An was a major shipping port in Vietnam and as a result the town straddles the Thu Bon river. I spent my time in Hoi An exploring the old town and just walking around. It seems you can also get shoes and clothes made to measure and many of the motely crew had something made to measure (I didn't!)
Hoi An
From Hoi An we took an overnight bus to Nah Trang, The bus which had luxurious reclining seats ensured I had a good night's sleep so arrived bright eyed and bushey tailed and ready to rock. Unfortunately for me Nah Trang is a beach resort and as I don't really do beaches I spent the next three days exploring this modern resort. It seems that with Da Nang where there is also a lot of development of holiday resorts and that this part of Vietnam is becoming more and more a serious holiday destination. If you are into diving, windsurfing/kiting, fising, snorkling or anything to do with the sea then this is the place to be.
Nah Trang
We left Nah Trang on a sunny Wednesday morning to arrive in Mui Ne late in the afternoon. Yet another beach resort so once again spent my time chilling. In fact I've spent so much time chilling recently I'm now really cool! From Mui Ne we drove on to Ho Chi Minh City and our last stop in Vietnam. Prior to the end of the Vietnam war, Ho Chi Minh City was known as Saigonm and is the largest city in Vietnam. Popped down for a day trip to the Mekong delta to see what its all about. Given that the river is huge didn't get a view of the delta itself as you need to be a few thousand feet in the air for that but we went on a big boat to one of the islands then a smaller boat up a tributary and then an even smaller boat (people powered) up an even smaller tributary and another island. My last couple of days in Vietnam are being spent exploring the city. The War Remenants Museum is really interesting and if you ever get her I recommend a visit.
Fishing boat on the Mekong
Reunification Palace in Ho Chi Minh City
The post office built by the French
Truck News
We said goodbye to Norrie and Edna in Luang Prabang as they came to the end of their journey. They are now at home in Christchurch suffering earthquakes (that'll teach them to complain about the truck!). Grace also left in Luang Prabang as she was going to become a Granny and felt being at home was preferable to continuing the trip. As yet we don't know whether she is a granny to a boy or a girl (probably will never find out!). Floyd has also left us now. She completed her journey in Hoi An where she kidnapped soe of the group to go with her to Hanoi and Halong Bay.
French Pauline, Julie and Owen have returned from their break and not so young Pauline has left for a side trip to Borneo and Burma we are expecting her back somewhere in Malaysia. Also looks like French Pauline and Owen are now a couple which is a real pisser for Sarah who was Owen's partner they are getting a bit of stick for this but hey ho what can you say. Looks like Chris D and Chris H may have got it together with Rosie and Christine.
With the loss of John B, Jake and Chris R in Katmandu and now Grace, Norrie and Edna and Floyd we are down to 33 hard core truckers who look like they intend to go the whole way!
Anyway that's all for now. Take care, be lucky and I know you are all missing me terribly.
Matt (in Vietnam)
Phone Off
Thinking of you all (NOT!)
